What kind of wood is butcher block made from
You can get some great tips on how to make excellent countertops from the best wood available. The butcher block countertop is a refreshing deviation from the traditional granite countertops that enjoy so much popularity. It serves the purpose of providing counter space and as a cutting board cum tabletop for eating meals.
A butcher block typically consists of straight wood cuts joined together with glue to create a thick slab for the purposes described above. You can do slicing and chop directly on this surface. We usually make butcher block countertops from maple, but you will find some made of teak, walnut, cherry, and oak.
Nowadays, bamboo presents a popular and eco-friendly option. You can read more about the types of wood used for cutting boards in another of our posts.
If you need to build a butcher block counter, you need to choose the best wood for the purpose. The best wood for butcher blocks needs to meet certain basic requirements as follows:. There is a huge variation in the price of readymade cutting boards and butcher blocks, the latter being the most expensive. The cost of a butcher block counter is largely dependent on the type of wood and the grade that you use to construct it.
We will deal extensively with the kind of wood that butcher blocks are made of further down in this article. Janka hardness rating is a standard that measures the hardness of wood.
The higher the hardness rating, the more resistant it will be to scratches, abrasions, and dents. A higher Janka hardness rating also indicates stronger wood. For chopping boards and butcher blocks, hardwoods like maple, cherry, and oak take precedence over softwoods like pine and Douglas fir.
The toxicity factor is extremely critical for wooden cookware and kitchenware, and the same applies to butcher block counters. On the other hand, woods that yield edible fruits, leaves, sap, or nuts are typically food-safe. Although certain woods like purpleheart have an exotic and attractive appearance, you should avoid them because they may contain toxins that can contaminate the food that you place on surfaces made from such woods.
Close-grained woods are the best choice for making cutting boards and butcher blocks. However, open-grained woods like ash or oak soak up moisture due to high porosity. As a result, they can easily develop mold, bacteria and absorb stains. Such woods will also warp easily. The density of these woods makes a butcher block resistant to dings, scratches and warping.
Other woods that can be used include zebra wood, bamboo and wenge. Knotty Pine butcher block countertops can be custom made to your specifications. Butcher block countertops are available in many other hardwood species.
But almost any hardwood can get the treatment: cherry, oak, beech, birch, tigerwood, and walnut are other great options. Hevea wood adds warmth and elegance, with either side of the countertops available for greater versatility. Like Acacia, either side of the Hevea countertop can be used. Unlike other woods, Hevea is harvested after it completes its latex producing cycle and dies.
But not all types of wood are superior options. Thickness and Edges. Wood countertop thickness generally ranges from a three-quarter inch to six inches, and butcher block from two inches to 12 inches. End grain boards are typically used to manufacture butcher blocks, as an example. Highlights: An African import; bright gold boards mellow in time to a teak-like brown. Highlights: Imported grass; heat-treating can give it a caramel hue. Highlights: Dense, heavy, variegated wood with black stripes on a rich brown background.
Highlights: Classic butcher-block material that is exceptionally strong, with a straight, uniform grain. Maker: Williamsburg Butcher Block Co. Highlights: New South American find; yellow-brown wood with gray and black streaks. Wood is easily tooled, so it lends itself to intricate designs.
Here are standard edge profiles as well as a few fancier variations. This simple, classic profile also called an eased edge is slightly rounded. It goes with any style interior and makes sweeping up crumbs a breeze. Sample edge profiles: DeVos Custom Woodworking. Also known as a beveled edge, this profile boasts a bold angle that works for contemporary as well as traditional kitchens.
An elegant, traditional look that requires a little more attention when cleaning. An edge that curves in and then out, somewhat like an S. This version is topped with a fillet for added dimension. A single slice of wood, often with a live edge that follows the contours of the tree, is a sought-after look for a counter that doesn't see heavy use. But slabs' variable density and limited supply make them impractical in a kitchen.
Search online for custom and specialty suppliers or find a local woodworker to source and install one. A wood kitchen counter is incomplete without a food-safe protective coating on all sides and edges.
For a matte look and a food-safe surface you can cut on, use FDA-approved mineral oil. It seeps in to make wood moisture-, heat-, and stain-resistant. Or try a nonpetroleum-based walnut oil or a "curing oil," such as pure tung oil, that hardens to form an imperceptible film that will wear but won't peel.
Made from mineral oil and beeswax or paraffin wax, this finish formula adds another layer of protection against moisture and helps seal the oil into the wood. Apply liberally with a clean cloth in the direction of the wood grain, let sit for 20 minutes, remove excess, and buff to a satiny finish.
Urethane, acrylic, or resin-curing-oil finishes provide superior protection against water, stains, and wear and are food-safe once fully cured. But reviving a worn or damaged top means stripping it and refinishing. Proprietary finishes offered by some companies cannot be matched but may never need recoating. Adding a stain can enhance the color and grain of a wood countertop, but you'll pay 5 to 10 percent more than you would for the same species in its natural state.
You can get a pricey look for less, however, by choosing an inexpensive, light-colored species such as beech and staining it a rich color like walnut. To DIY, sand off any finish and use a lint-free cotton cloth or natural-bristle brush to apply the stain, then wipe off the excess.
When dry, add a food-safe clear coat. But never use stained butcher block as a cutting surface. It temporarily fills in the grain, so the color will be absorbed more evenly. For a water-resistant barrier, all cutouts, edges, and surfaces must be treated with your choice of finish to seal out moisture.
Cutouts that extend slightly beyond the sink lip and over the bowl prevent standing water from saturating the edge, making the counter easier to maintain. Drop-in sinks work best with clear-coated or factory-finished countertops along with a flexible sealant beneath the rim to protect the wood. Avoid marine varnish; while water resistant, this high-VOC finish is not food safe. Use cardboard templates to trim prefab tops to size with a circular saw and a router, or send templates to a manufacturer; many will cut and ship slabs for free cutouts and curves cost extra.
On open-top base cabinets, fill with plywood fastening strips every foot; for solid-top cabinets, create air space with thin furring strips to allow moisture to escape. Center holes in the strips and drive a screw fitted with a fender washer up through each hole, into the countertop.
Wipe down the surface daily with a damp cloth and a small amount of dish soap; follow with a clean, damp cloth. To de-germ, spritz with a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water; let sit for 10 minutes, then wipe away.
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